Macro Photography - Part 9: Techniques (Part 2)

Macro photography on flowers:  Orange Blister beetle (Nemognatha scutellaris) on yarrow.

Where do you find subjects for your macro equipment?  That answer is highly varied depending on the habits of individual species, but I find that flowers are often a good place to start.

The obvious insects to visit flowers are pollinators.  This includes a wide range of creatures including bees, butterflies, flies, moths, hummingbirds, some beetles, and more (the full list will surprise you).  But it's not just the nectar they are there to take.  Many organisms feed on the flowers themselves, often taking the petals bit by bit.  

Truthfully, I don't find many of my subjects on garden plants, although I'm sure some have plenty of success with this.  I prefer to be in a field populated by wild flowers.  Although spring is the best time, you can find flower-orientated invertebrates wherever flowers are naturally present.  Once you have spotted your quarry, the next job is approaching it.

I have had modest success with a long lens, like a 300 or 400 mm on a crop sensor camera.  It allows you to be close at a distance, if you know what I mean.  The main problem with this is that you are usually dealing with reproduction rations less than 1:4.  This means serious cropping in post and doesn't work well with small subjects.  You can reduce distance by using auto extension tubes.  These are relatively inexpensive and will improve your minimum focus point.  You can also use a regular hot shoe mounted flash, preferably one with a zoom head to narrow the beam.  Below is a sample.

Western tiger swallowtail butterfly.  Nikon 80-400 @ 400 mm with flash.  f/9

Most of my macro work is done with the macro equipment I discussed in an earlier post.  In short, that's a 105 mm macro lens with macro flash units.  I prefer the 105 mm as it is the ideal focal length for me as it has a good subject-kit distance and is close enough to allow the macro flash units to expose the subject regardless of the aperture.  With this setup, I approach my subject and follow a well-versed sequence of events.  They are outlined below.

• The first step is to identify the subject you want to photograph.
• Make sure the camera is on, flashes are ready, focal length is set, and that all is ready.
• Then I alter position so I do not cast my shadow on it as I approach.
• I approach very slowly - this is important as insects can easily detect motion.
• When I am modestly close I will adjust focus and shoot a photo or two.
• Reduce distance again and shoot a couple more images.
• At this point my legs should be as physically close to the subject as they are going to get.
• I then start bending at the waist - this is where I typically start to get good photos.
• Inch by inch I move, bending at the waist, possibly knees, shoot, bend a little more, repeat.
• If I have been successful, I will be as close as I can/desire to be and can snap a few more with variation on angle.

One of the great challenges here is wind.  If the flower is thrashing all over the place it generally means the insects will not see you approaching (they are hanging on for dear life) as well, but it also means your subject is not likely to be in focus.  This is where I reach underneath the flower with my left hand and steady it.  It is not the best way, that would be with a tripod and extendable clamps, time and very patient subjects.  Not my style.

The adage, "If you don't succeed, try, try again" comes to mind in macro work.  There are many reasons why you will fail in your attempt to get the shot you hope for.  And just when you thought you have found them all, new ones will appear.  The key is not to be discouraged, to keep trying, and you will find that success will elude you less often over time.

Thanks for reading.

Eric Svendsen     www.ericspix.com