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Showing posts from May, 2025

Dark edged bee fly - Bombylius major - A parasitoid.

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I photographed this using my Zfc camera, Nikon Z 105 macro, and SB900 hot shoe mounted flash. OK - I'll admit it - not one of my better macro photos, however, it happens to have a few firsts that are worth noting.  It's the first decent shot I have gotten of a bee fly in the last few years - they are notoriously hard to photograph as they seldom hang around long enough to shoot.  It's one of the first shots with my Nikon Z system where I used an external flash instead of my wrong Canon ring flash I used for the last few days (see previous blogs).  And it's the first shot I have taken with my new system where I didn't have a significant case of frustration affecting me. Bee flies are also known as humble flies - that's something I didn't know.  The adults flit around flowers taking nectar with that long needle-like proboscis protruding from the face and are important pollinators.  The larvae are a different breed as they feed on the larvae of solitary bees su...

Using a Canon flash on a Nikon camera

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Manual exposure mode and manual flash (1/16th power) works when using an incompatible flash. If you read my last two blogs ( blog-1 blog-2 ), you would know that I had ordered a Nikon MF-R76 ring flash but ended up with a Canon one.  I did not know it until today and the last two days my attempts at taking macro photos have been largely in vain.  The cause of my frustrations turned out to be because the Canon version made by Godox was incompatible with the Nikon Zfc camera I was using. Normally I use my camera on manual exposure mode, set the shutter speed to the flash synch speed (1/200th for this body) and choose a small aperture.  The flash synchs with the camera and provides enough light to expose the subject.  The flash is set to communicate with the camera using the various contacts available or wirelessly should the proper choices be available.  This, a trusted system, did not work. What did work though was me setting the flash to manual.  The trick...

Gordox MF-R76 - Part 2 - A sales mistake.

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  Snake fly - Raphidoptera - photographed at Winifield, BC. I should have known.  Something was wrong, but what?  I spent all of yesterday trying to problem-solve issues with the Godox ring flash to no avail.  I consider myself handy at using photographic equipment and, even though I spent many hours adjusting camera and flash settings, I could not make the thing work properly.  My exposures were still coming out very dark.  Thankfully the raw files I shot them in allowed me to resurrect some of the images. I am camping right now and I have limited access to my stuff at home, including the box and sales receipt my flash came in.  I had no instruction manual and went online to obtain one.  You would think it would be an easy process, but suffice it to say that I had no such luck.  The closest I came to one was a Japanese manuscript that had all the right pictures but did not improve my understanding.  To say that I was frustrated was an u...

Godox MF-R76 Macro flash - my first use of it. Part 1.

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Black ant I photographed with the ring flash Godox MF-R76 flash and Nikon Z 105 macro lens. Well, I must say that I am disappointed by the flash.  Although it gives nice, even light, the sad fact is that it is underpowered for the work I do.  I found that it consistently underexposed my images if my aperture ever exceeded f/16 while using my 105 Nikkor Z lens while at the 1:1 reproduction ratio.  Most of my macro shots I use the 105 and a small aperture in order to maximize depth of field.  In comparison, my SB200 kit does a superior job when using these settings, and at a lower ISO too. There are a couple of fixes, but none of them are satisfactory.  I could shoot at a higher ISO, but that would incur digital noise and reduce the quality of the image.  I could shoot at lower apertures but would then restrict depth of field.  Thirdly, I could use a 50 mm or so macro lens and reduce my shooting distance by half, but then I also have to be that much clos...

Munson pond - before and after road development

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Left - Google maps view of Munson Pond as of May 15, 2025 Right - Future view of Munson Pond from Google maps Munson Pond is a jewel of Kelowna.  Even though it used to be an open gravel pit, it is now home to countless birds and mammals and a haven for humans needing peace, a breath of fresh air, and a touch of nature.  Western Pond turtles are protected under the Endangered Species Act.  Their population is such that people lose count when trying to ascertain their number.   With the proposed road development, Munson Pond will lose valuable ecologically important land, will suffer from an increase in urban traffic, and will likely be affected by nearby housing developments that are sure to come.  All of this development will put more pressure on the inhabitants and result in a decrease in both biodiversity and population.   A further injury to the pond will be an increase in eutrophication due to nearby residential and commercial development....

Making better portraits - Links to the blog series

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A family I photographed at the beach in Pacific City, Oregon. Part 1   Introduction Part 2   Choosing the right lens Part 3   Backgrounds and focal lengths Part 4   Using fill flash to improve your shots Part 5   Using a flash and incident light meter with strobes Part 6   Character shots Part 7   Photographing relationships  

Making better portraits - Part 7 - Photographing relationships

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Top: Charles and me at Sedona    Kathryn and Murphy     Charles and me on the USS Texas Bottom:  Howard and Lori and their dog, Winston     Kathryn and Leanne and Me in Hawaii What could be more important in your life than the relationships you have with the people and pets you love and who love you in return?  Although portrait photography is about photographing the likes of a person or even who they are, a very important part of it should be about the relationships between loved ones. The photography itself can be done wherever, although I suggest it be done at a place that has some meaning.  Photo studios with white backgrounds certainly work, but if you want familiar surroundings that have meaning, location makes a difference.  Don't forget to include all the various tips and tricks mentioned in the previous blogs on portraits.  Fill flash, depth of field, focal length, and so on all add to the shot. If you are going t...

Making better portraits - Part 6 - Character shots

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Character shots.  Left - Captain of the Lady Rose .  Right - Ron Plett on his John Deere Tractor A portrait generally is done to illustrate what someone looks like or to combine the members of a group into a unifying photo.  What those images don't usually convey is who someone is.  I have written on character shots before ( one two ) and will do so again - they are important to those who they are about. The photograph of someone generally is not looked upon favourably by the person in the photo.  It is different with photos of relationships (next blog), and different with character shots as it is more about who they are rather than their appearance.  Rarely will someone dress up for a character shot - it is taken how they are and where they love to be.  It proudly states to all that see it, "This is who I am." The trick to making an attractive character shot is to understand the person you are photographing.  What do they love?  Where do th...

Making better portraits - Part 5 - Using a flash and incident light meter with strobes.

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Left - a book cover I photographed.  Right - a young bride.  Yes, the same person. There is no doubt that a good set of strobes will allow you to capture the images you could only dream of before.  They should only be deployed in controlled conditions where you have time, control of the ambient lighting, and control of any people or animals in the area.  Expensive and easily toppled, these paragons of illumination represent the peak of the industry. The main reasons strobes are so good are due to the broad light source, the quality of that light, the power, and the ability to control them individually or in groups.  However, setting one or more of them up to obtain the right power level and position takes effort and some skill, plus a certain amount of experimentation.  This is where a good flash meter comes in. Flash meters are a tool that measures the power output of a flash, whether it be from a built-in unit, an external flash, or a strobe.  You se...

Making better portraits - Part 4 - Using fill flash to improve your shots.

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Fill flash improves shadows and adds saturation and contrast to subjects. If you do portraits, one of the best pieces of equipment you can add to your arsenal is a good flash.  Yes, many cameras come with a built-in flash, but have you noticed that high-end cameras don't?  There is a reason for this.  High-end camera users know that a powerful external flash is the only way to go. Flash adds contrast, improves saturation, and helps subjects stand out from the background.  It also fills shadows.  Even if the available light is good enough to illuminate subject and background alike, flash will improve the shot.  The trick, though, is using it correctly. Sometimes the use of a flash can be as simple as turning it on.  Attach it (or pop it up), turn it on, and press the shutter.  Seems easy enough.  Rarely though, will this give you everything you wanted and the photo could be better if you make a few adjustments. 1.  Camera mode:  Any ...

Making better portraits - Part 3 - Backgrounds and focal lengths

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The relationship between subject and background can be altered by changes in position and camera. The power you have as a photographer to alter the relationship between subject and background is amazing, but you have to be aware of what can be done to harness it.  Many people do not recognize the effect of focal length on compression and distortion parameters in lenses or how to make it work for them.  The key here is to position your camera and your subject relative to the background in the right place and to choose the best focal length and aperture to produce the desired effect between subject and background. Focal length, subject and background position, and aperture will give you all the control you need. The question you have to ask yourself when setting up for a portrait is, "What do I want the shot to look like?"  Below are some of those goals and how you may position everything to achieve them. Out of focus background - use a long lens (80 mm or longer relative) ...

Making better portraits - Part 2 - Choosing the right lens.

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Portraits I have taken and the lenses they were photographed with. While it is true that you can shoot a portrait with just about any lens that you have, there are a few things that tend to be constant.  The lens should have mild to moderate telephoto capabilities and you want to use the lowest apertures possible.  In fact, I would go so far as to say that you should consider acquiring a prime (fixed focal length, not zoom), low-aperture lens with the intention of using it for only portraits. DSLRs, mirrorless, and four-thirds cameras may have full-frame sensors, APS-C sized sensors with a crop factor of 1.5 or 1.6, and compact systems cameras with a crop factor of 2.  The actual focal length is usually compared to the relative focal length of a full-frame camera.  You can see the table below that has both the actual and relative focal length values. Table showing actual and relative focal lengths of lenses on digital cameras. My favourite lenses to use for portraits...

Making better portrait photos - Part 1

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Some of the portraits I have taken over the years.   Everyone can take a photo of a person, of two people, or a group of people.  Such photos are typically called portraits and they are representative of what someone looks like at a particular point in time.  Portraits can do other things too, such as show a person's character, point out a location or activity, or just capture that exact moment when something special happened. The key to making a good portrait photo is to do it well.  As simple as it sounds, there is a lot that goes into it.  Each decision you make about camera and lens settings, location, choice of equipment, and where and how your subject is positioned all produce an impact.  Want proof of that?  Take your camera and go to a public place and ask people at random to take your photo.  Tell them to be creative with how they do it, and let them decide how to set the camera up.  If they have no clue, get them to use portrai...

JPEGs versus HEIF

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Comparing HEIC and JPEG formats - The insets are 250x250 pixel uncropped excerpts from originals.  HEIF (notice the F is not a C) is a file type for storing images.  HEIC is that type of file but is proprietary to Apple and used in iOS devices like iPhones.  The HEI portion stands for High Efficiency File and the F is for File format and the C is for Container.  This type of file has been around since 2016 or so. JPEGs have been around forever (1992) and for many years has been the universal standard for creating and saving image files.  However, some new mirrorless cameras gives you the option to use HEIF format and most cellphones now allow saving your images in this format. I can set my iPhone to take HEIC images, but it defaults to JPEG when using burst mode.  I only  learned this because I was photographing my game on Sunday and discovered my burst were JPEGS while my singles were HEIC.   HEIF formats are technically better than JPEG for...

iPhone slow-mo video

As a still photographer, I rarely take video.  However, I wanted to play with the video features offered by my iPhone 15 pro.  I had never tried the slow-mo feature, but at yesterday's game it seemed to be a good thing to do.  I recorded at 720p - a large but not full-sized video that would keep up and download times short.  The result was satisfactory - as long as I kept the videos short. The slow-mo feature works by having the camera record at 120 or 240 fps and then playing it back at 30 fps.  Older iPhones record at 120, so the speed is reduced by a factor of 4 while newer iphones (12+) record at 240, so the speed is reduced by a factor of 8. I probably shot 20 minutes or so of video.  I also did some stills with my iPhone, but they weren't as good as the ones I shot previously with my DSLR and mirrorless cameras.  I did discover one interesting thing.  You can take multiple frames by pressing the shutter button in photo mode and dragging it s...

All you need is a bucket and a net.

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Josh and Leanne circa 2001.  At the beach during a camping trip. The natural world is an amazing place.  It is full of all kinds of wonders and things to discover.  A caterpillar on the finger, a butterfly on a flower, or a bug in the water.  Each living thing holds its own beauty and celebration of creation.  And to explore them, all that is needed is a bucket and a net. Although electronics have taken away much of our children's curiosity about the living things that make up our surroundings, there is still the opportunity to get them interested in nature.  You don't have to be there, but it helps.  It is important that children learn the value of nature, to be gentle with the creatures they handle and to learn something of their natural world.  It helps to show them that you are curious about it too and that learning is something you can spend a lifetime doing. Whenever I have been on a walk with my kids, we always would explore what was around...

Vertical or horizontal format - you decide

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John's Family Conservancy near Kelowna, BC.  Which format do you prefer? Landscapes, horizontal compositions, are called that because they are often used to photograph outdoor natural settings.  Portraits, vertical compositions, are likewise because they are used to commonly photograph individuals.  However, A landscape can be shot in portrait format and a portrait can be shot in a landscape format; it's entirely up to the creator of the image.  Hopefully, that made some sense to you. Although it's true that I shoot landscapes horizontally as a normal means of composition, I do occasionally like to mix things up a bit and shoot them vertically.  Much of it depends on the scene and what it is I want to achieve.  For the above photos, I decided I would use the foreground tree as a significant subject and shoot it in both formats.  The results are both good, although I like the portrait presentation better because it makes the main subject all the more ap...

Safe or out? Does the photo reveal the truth?

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It was our third game.  We were the X-men (actually, team  χ - the Greek letter chi - being the chi-men, which sounds more like a spice than a baseball team) and playing against a team much younger than ourselves.  The final score was 28-9, and we weren't the 28.  I brought along my Z7ii and Plena f.1.8 135 mm lens which allowed me to shoot at very low apertures and very fast shutter speeds.  The image above was at f/1.8 at 1/1000th of a second. Looking at the above photo, do you think the runner was out or safe?  The image was actually falsified as the ball was not where it seems.  If you look at the image below you can see the original, the one a moment after it, and where I got the ball from. This was the photo a moment later.  So, how is it possible that the ball seems to be in a much different position - it should be closer to the mitt, not further away.  The truth is that the first image had the ball copied from the above one and pasted...