Manual exposure shooting mode with live histogram display - a great way to operate your camera.

Chief Sw'kn'cut life-size statue at the waterfront park in Kelowna, BC.

Most people will tell you that they rarely, if ever, operate their camera in manual exposure mode.  The reason is simple:  too complicated, difficult to get good photos, and causes anxiety.  And yet, by learning a few simple tricks and turning on your camera's live histogram display, you can take better photos than ever before.

I took the above photo two days ago while visiting Kelowna's waterfront park.  I only ever shoot in manual exposure mode now, in both my DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.  The mirrorless cameras have a distinct advantage in that the digital viewfinder allows you to view the image with a histogram superimposed on the image.  The DSLR provides an optical viewfinder and so there is no live histogram available, but if you turn on LiveView and use the rear LCD screen, you can usually incorporate a live histogram display.

At the very least you can view an images histogram in the rear LCD by pressing the PLAY button and toggling the view until the chart is displayed.  If it doesn't show up, you may have to go into the camera's settings and select it as an option.  The same is true for live histogram displays; they are offered as an option and you have to enable the feature.

The other thing I rely on is the camera's exposure bar.  In manual mode, the camera will tell you what the current ISO, shutter speed, and aperture values are and show an exposure bar indicating how much the exposure is off by according to the built-in metering and exposure system.  The image below simulates an exposure bar in a viewfinder with a live histogram display.

Pied-billed grebe on Okanagan Lake.  The image was overexposed 
intentionally to compensate for the bright reflection off the water.

In the example above, if I had centered the exposure indicator (let 4/3s of a stop less light in) the image would have been underexposed.  I used the histogram and exposure bar to determine how much extra light the situation needed.  Also, the mirrorless camera provides a visual confirmation of what the exposure would look like.  I used the three pieces of information to determine the proper exposure.  I can correct for small errors in Photoshop.

Once you become comfortable with using this system, you will find that it makes a lot of sense and that you will end up with better shots.  You will spend a lot less time playing with exposure compensation or exposure lock settings in Automatic Exposure Modes and will start to understand light much better.

One of the great things is that, once you figure out the correct settings, you can often leave your camera set there as the light falling on your subjects doesn't change that much unless there is a significant change in weather or shade.  I use this all the time on all my cameras and is the only technique I now rely on to shoot.  Trust me, it's the best way to go.

Thanks for reading.

Eric Svendsen     www.ericspix.com


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