Creating your own HDR image with one photo.

HDR stands for High Dynamic Range. Normal JPEGs can only capture a range of about 8 stops from the darkest to the lightest values. This is adequate under most situations but fails when the light falling on objects in your photo goes beyond those values. On a sunny day it is not unusual for bright areas to be 10 or 12 stops higher in their light values (LV) than shadowed areas. This can go well beyond that when the sun is in the image, if sand or snow is present, and especially if the light is reflecting off the water.

Using RAW settings in your camera can adjust for this to some extent as RAW images typically have about 12 stops of latitude. This essentially means that much more information can be extracted out of areas of shadow. If you want more range than that you can consider bracketing over a wide range and using HDR software to combine the images. It is best if you are using a tripod and if variable objects like moving people that cause ghosting are not present. Still, though, there must be a way to use a single RAW file to create an HDR image. It turns out there is.

First of all, you need a program capable of merging multiple bracketed images. I have used four including Photoshop CS6, Photoshop CC-2020, Photomatix, and Nix Efex Pro 2. The images above were created using the last one listed. For a rundown of current (2021) HDR merging software, check out this website. If you have three or more bracketed JPEG images, shot at least one stop apart, you can import them into the application of your choice. I did a blog on this earlier (shooting the sun and Helmecken Falls). Today's blog is on creating an HDR image with a single photograph.

Now, this may sound impossible given what you know, but really it is not that hard. The first step is in creating a RAW image, preferably with a high-end DSLR or mirrorless camera. it is important that you NOT overexpose the image; RAW digital capture can record details in areas of shadow but loses detail easily in areas of strong highlights. In short, it is better to underexpose than overexpose. The second step involves opening the image in Photoshop, Lightroom, or some other pixel editing program with significant manipulation functions. Once the application is open you need to follow these steps:

• Work on things like white balance, saturation, lens profile, vignetting, and so on to get the image looking the way you want it WITHOUT working on any of the shading or exposure settings.


• Save that image with a name and give it a number (1). For example, mine was Belcarra HDR 1. Leave the file open if you like.


• Go to your original HDR image and open it a second time. It will load up with all the changes you originally made. Examine the exposure slider, it should be set to 0 because you never accessed it (right?). Adjust it to +1 stop. Open the file and save it again, this time as number (2). Again, leave it open if you like.


• Do the same with the next two or three images, changing the exposure slider to +2, +3, and so on. I also did one that was underexposed a bit (-1). if you look at the image below you can see the histograms of all the now open files. Each one came from a single original RAW file, the same one. This is handy because there will be no ghosting as you only have the one image you are adjusting.


• Open your HDR program and import (add open files) the images into it. Follow whatever procedures you need to use to complete the process. It should be pretty straightforward; if you have to you can use help to get assistance.


• After the images have been merged you can play with the assorted settings to get the final product you like. Some programs are better than others at doing this. I am not fond of Photoshop's HDR merging program and avoid it as a rule of thumb. It works with normally bracketed images but not at all with ones done from a single file. I do not care for its ability to adjust the end product either.


• Save your final image as a JPEG or a TIFF if you like. I usually do a TIFF with the large full-sized version and make a smaller JPEG for display purposes.

I have found that creating HDR images is both interesting and rewarding. If you are interested, it is worth your time to explore what HDR imaging has to offer.

Thanks for reading.     Ericspix     Eric Svendsen